Alpinismo : Simone Moro - Destinazione Makalu Invernale |
Inviato da tc il 3/12/2008 05:48:56 (6635 letture)
 | In compagnia del noto alpinista kazako Denis Urubko, Simone Moro partirà durante il periodo natalizio per il Makalu. Prima fase di salita nella valle del Kuhmbu per poi andare al campo base del Makalu. La via di salita non è ancora chiara e potrà variare in base al meteo: "potrà essere la normale come pure la Kukuczka" (già salita da Simone nel '93 fino a quota 8200m). Particolare di questa spedizione sarà la filosofia VERA del "by fair means" (con le proprie forze): niente sherpa, niente ossigeno e se possibile niente corde fisse. Simone ci dice "stile superlight!". Tempo massimo di rientro sarà il 21 Marzo. (continua ...) |  | Team: Simone Moro e Denis Urubko
Destinazione: Makalu
Partenza: fine dicembre 2008 - rientro max. 21 marzo 2009
Nella foto (zoom): Simone e Denis | |  | | La mappa con Makalu - zoom>> |
- Durante la spedizione verranno inviate news giornaliere al sito internet www.simonemoro.com e probabilmente anche su www.extremehd.net
- le altre news rilevanti invece saranno su tOSCOCLIMB
- Verranno effettuate riprese video in Full HD e foto con macchine di altissima risoluzione qualitativa.
- Sponsor ufficiale della spedizione THE NORTH FACE
- Nima Nuru Sherpa, titolare della Cho Oyu trekking, sarà il nostro organizzatore della logistica in Nepal | | 
Denis Uzubko - zoom>> | La Storia (EN):
Winter attempts to conquer the mountain were begun by Renato Casarotto and Mario Curnis in 1980 where they reached 7400 m. Than it came the turn of Reinhold Messner at the break of 1985/86. He managed to get to the couloir leading to Makalu La pass. Hurricane winds made further action impossible. Events of the expedition were filmed and caused great emotion and controversy. A French Himalaist died. His body was pushed into a crack in the ice. The Poles applied to the Nepalese authorities for the permission to attack Makalu in winter in the season of 1987/88. That was the first time. Andrzej Machnik was the head of the expedition. There were no helicopters then. The expedition employed four Nepalese carriers. Six Poles and two Americans walked with a caravan until the foot of Makalu. It took them two weeks. On 10 December 1987 the main base was set up at the southern slope. After that they set up three camps at the Chago glacier and at the entrance to the couloir which led to Makalu La pass. The history repeated itself. A change of weather and windstorms allowed them to reach the height of 7400 meters. Alpinists sheltered in caves in ice cut out with saws. On 28 January 1988 the Polish expedition surrendered.
Four people formed the next expedition led by Krzysztof Wielicki on 1998. | | 
Makalu ed Everest dallo Spazio
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Makalu Ovest
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| Anna Czerwińska, Ryszard Pawłowski and Ingrid Bayens from Belgium were with him. At the time Wielicki was among the best of Himalaists. His achievements included winter conquests of Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga and Lhotse, marking new routes from bases into the peaks of the Himalayan giants within 24 hours. He also got acquainted with the route of the first conquerors of Makalu leading through Makalu La.
"We aimed really high - said Wielicki - we thought that everything was possible, even a four-person winter attack of so vast and windy mountain. We chose the classic route through Makalu La, which appeared difficult due to its length. We got lost in a blizzard. In mid-January we had enough of it. This was however a great school of Himalaism. Every one of us stood at the top of the Everest".
Than Wielicki attemped again in the 2000/2001 Winter. That Expedition to Makalu will be remembered as one more unsuccessful attempt to conquer a virgin, eight-thousand-meter high mountain in winter. There exist fourteen giants. Makalu remains one out of sixs which have not been conquered yet. The Winter Crown of the Himalayas still remains the greatest challenge of the highest mountains.
On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent. Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. The 3rd February 2008 Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov and Eugeny Shutov, have been struggling to complete the first Winter ascent of Makalu, but the high winds and harsh weather, have continually turned them back. | | |
Per chi volesse essere curioso delle ascensioni più rilevanti di Simone sarà messa in giornata la pagina online >> |
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