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Makalu ed Everest dallo Spazio
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Makalu Ovest
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| Anna Czerwińska, Ryszard Pawłowski and Ingrid Bayens from Belgium were with him. At the time Wielicki was among the best of Himalaists. His achievements included winter conquests of Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga and Lhotse, marking new routes from bases into the peaks of the Himalayan giants within 24 hours. He also got acquainted with the route of the first conquerors of Makalu leading through Makalu La.
"We aimed really high - said Wielicki - we thought that everything was possible, even a four-person winter attack of so vast and windy mountain. We chose the classic route through Makalu La, which appeared difficult due to its length. We got lost in a blizzard. In mid-January we had enough of it. This was however a great school of Himalaism. Every one of us stood at the top of the Everest".
Than Wielicki attemped again in the 2000/2001 Winter. That Expedition to Makalu will be remembered as one more unsuccessful attempt to conquer a virgin, eight-thousand-meter high mountain in winter. There exist fourteen giants. Makalu remains one out of sixs which have not been conquered yet. The Winter Crown of the Himalayas still remains the greatest challenge of the highest mountains.
On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent. Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. The 3rd February 2008 Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov and Eugeny Shutov, have been struggling to complete the first Winter ascent of Makalu, but the high winds and harsh weather, have continually turned them back. |
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