Jannu (7710m) North Face: in a two-man team & alpine style
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Il russo Valery Babanov accompagnato da Sergey Kofanov ha intenzione di aprire una nuova via sullo Jannu(Nepal), una parete di 1200 metri praticamente tutta strapiombante. Unica realizzazione della Nord dello Jannu è sempre ad opera di altri Russi (3 anni fa) ma Valery ci dice che non ripeterà una via già salita (riferendosi alla Diretta Odinstov che valse a quest'ultimo il Piolet d'or nel 2004, ndr) ma che "saremo solo in due, Sergey Kofanov ed io, e scaleremo in puro stile alpino. Decideremo la linea quando saremo al campo base dello Jannu". Segue articolo in EN
Probably, there in no one from climbing society in Russia who has not heard the name of this Mountain.
And I think that I need not go into the all attempts, both successful and failed, to summit it from the North. The Mountain remembers quantities of attempts, but only few and far between of them were successful.
The last winners were the members of a large, close-knit Russian team of expedition in spring 2003 working in the last degree managed to open the hardest route right to the summit on this tremendous fantastically beautiful Mountain. Since then, nobody has disturbed Jannu North Face sleep. Have I anything farther to say?
Only about a real fact that Jannu itself and every attempt to climb it from any faces and especially from the North means a fascinating leap in the dark, a chance to test yourself and to learn margin of human capacity.
The more altitude is ahead, the more difficultly of the route you choose, and the smaller team paves it the more risk and more responsibility for your decisions you get. But in fact actually a strong attraction of mountaineering is in that. A man opposes to the Nature. He struggles, proves, and matures. And in this struggle he wants to win over himself.
I would like to add that the modern alpinism develops not only aside the hardest technical routes but also aside expansion and experience of human ceiling.
For some time past the complex high-altitude ascents with minimum using of supplementary gear has become more and more question of present interest. And a problem "How to climb?" is an important bearing on a choice of a route and style of ascent than "What to climb?".
Choosing simple and fair methods of struggle a climber adds to new experience and affects - such his mental growth takes place.
Jannu North face climb in a two-man team and light style meetings to me always smacked of a fair way of struggle with personal perfection, learning internal and external worlds.
The idea to open a new route on Jannu North Face in a two-man team and alpine style leaped into my mind not today but about seven years ago. And the things seem to go right way and in four weeks we can already take a view at Jannu summit.
Sergey Kofanov joins with me in this challenge.
He is a young (29 years), right-motivated on modern style, strong climber. In his bag is two Everest's ascents and wide experience of participation in Russian Mountaineering Championships. I hope very much that our duo will be good and strong.
As for pending routes we consider two - three variants as well. A logical and very beautiful line via the Jannu North-west ridge leading directly to the summit is one of the basic and I can safely say that it is one of the most beautiful, potential routes. Two French expeditions made attempts to overcome it but failed.
Other two variants of pathfinding exist actually on the North Face. But it is clear that the final choice of the route of our ascent we will take in situ after getting to Base camp and reconnaissance.
Expedition start from Katmandu is appointed on September, 16. We plan to reach BC on September, 26-27. First two weeks: acclimatization and choice of the route. And the main ascent will occur in the mid- or last October. In expedition hand: Thuraya satellite phone. Sponsors: ВАSK, SCARPA, GRIVEL, BEAL, JULBO. Photos of Jannu: Paul Robach